/* THE WHOLE of Patagonia — hoja de estilos única.
   Sin fuentes web (cero peticiones externas, cero FOUT, cero licencias).
   Sin imágenes fotográficas: la identidad es cartográfica y se dibuja en CSS/SVG. */

:root {
  color-scheme: light dark;

  --paper:      #f5f2ec;
  --paper-2:    #ebe6dd;
  --paper-3:    #e2dcd1;
  --ink:        #15181c;
  --ink-soft:   #4c545c;
  --ink-faint:  #5e666e;
  --rule:       #d5cec2;
  --rule-soft:  #e4ded4;
  --accent:     #1f4f56;
  --accent-ink: #ffffff;
  --mark:       #9c3f22;
  --ok:         #2c5f3a;
  --warn:       #7a5209;
  --pend:       #6b4a8a;

  --serif: ui-serif, "Iowan Old Style", "Palatino Linotype", Palatino, Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;
  --sans: ui-sans-serif, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, "Helvetica Neue", Arial, sans-serif;
  --mono: ui-monospace, SFMono-Regular, "SF Mono", Menlo, Consolas, "Liberation Mono", monospace;

  --measure: 34rem;
  --gutter: clamp(1rem, 4vw, 2.5rem);
  --shell: 74rem;
}

@media (prefers-color-scheme: dark) {
  :root {
    --paper:     #0f1214;
    --paper-2:   #161a1d;
    --paper-3:   #1d2226;
    --ink:       #ece7de;
    --ink-soft:  #b0aaa1;
    --ink-faint: #8d877f;
    --rule:      #2c3237;
    --rule-soft: #232a2e;
    --accent:    #7fc4c9;
    --accent-ink:#0f1214;
    --mark:      #e08b6a;
    --ok:        #86c79a;
    --warn:      #d8b25e;
    --pend:      #bda2dd;
  }
}

*, *::before, *::after { box-sizing: border-box; }

html { -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; scroll-behavior: smooth; }
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) {
  html { scroll-behavior: auto; }
  *, *::before, *::after { animation-duration: .001ms !important; transition-duration: .001ms !important; }
}

body {
  margin: 0;
  background: var(--paper);
  color: var(--ink);
  font-family: var(--sans);
  font-size: 1rem;
  line-height: 1.65;
  overflow-wrap: break-word;
  /* Retícula cartográfica: dos gradientes, cero imágenes. */
  background-image:
    repeating-linear-gradient(to right, color-mix(in srgb, var(--rule) 34%, transparent) 0 1px, transparent 1px 6rem),
    repeating-linear-gradient(to bottom, color-mix(in srgb, var(--rule) 22%, transparent) 0 1px, transparent 1px 6rem);
  background-attachment: fixed;
}

h1, h2, h3, h4 { font-family: var(--serif); font-weight: 600; line-height: 1.15; letter-spacing: -0.012em; margin: 0 0 .5em; text-wrap: balance; }
h1 { font-size: clamp(1.9rem, 1.3rem + 2.6vw, 3.1rem); }
h2 { font-size: clamp(1.35rem, 1.1rem + 1.1vw, 1.85rem); margin-top: 2.2em; }
h3 { font-size: clamp(1.1rem, 1rem + .55vw, 1.35rem); margin-top: 1.8em; }
p { margin: 0 0 1.1em; }

a { color: inherit; text-decoration-thickness: 1px; text-underline-offset: .18em; }
a:hover { text-decoration-thickness: 2px; }
a:focus-visible, button:focus-visible, input:focus-visible, select:focus-visible, textarea:focus-visible, summary:focus-visible {
  outline: 3px solid var(--accent);
  outline-offset: 2px;
  border-radius: 2px;
}

/* --- estructura --- */
.shell { max-width: var(--shell); margin-inline: auto; padding-inline: var(--gutter); }
.prose { max-width: var(--measure); }
.prose ul, .prose ol { padding-left: 1.15rem; margin: 0 0 1.2em; }
.prose li { margin-bottom: .45em; }

.skip {
  position: absolute; left: -9999px; top: 0; z-index: 100;
  background: var(--accent); color: var(--accent-ink); padding: .7rem 1rem;
}
.skip:focus { left: .5rem; top: .5rem; }

/* --- cabecera --- */
.masthead { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--rule); background: color-mix(in srgb, var(--paper) 86%, transparent); backdrop-filter: saturate(1.2) blur(6px); }
.masthead__row { display: flex; align-items: flex-start; justify-content: space-between; gap: 1rem; padding-block: .9rem; }
.lockup { display: inline-block; text-decoration: none; line-height: 1.05; }
.lockup__1 { display: block; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.32rem; letter-spacing: .16em; text-transform: uppercase; font-weight: 600; }
.lockup__2 { display: block; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: .95rem; font-style: italic; color: var(--ink-soft); }
.lockup__3 { display: block; font-family: var(--sans); font-size: .62rem; letter-spacing: .22em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ink-faint); margin-top: .25rem; }
.masthead__tools { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: .75rem; flex-shrink: 0; padding-top: .25rem; }
.langswitch { font-size: .78rem; letter-spacing: .1em; text-transform: uppercase; border: 1px solid var(--rule); padding: .45rem .7rem; text-decoration: none; min-height: 44px; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; }
.langswitch:hover { border-color: var(--accent); }

.nav { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--rule); }
.nav__list { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: .1rem 1.15rem; list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: .55rem 0; font-size: .82rem; letter-spacing: .045em; }
.nav__list a { text-decoration: none; color: var(--ink-soft); display: inline-block; padding: .35rem 0; }
.nav__list a:hover, .nav__list a[aria-current="page"] { color: var(--ink); text-decoration: underline; }

/* --- migas --- */
.crumbs { font-size: .78rem; color: var(--ink-faint); padding-block: 1rem .25rem; }
.crumbs ol { list-style: none; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: .35rem; margin: 0; padding: 0; }
.crumbs li + li::before { content: "/"; margin-right: .35rem; color: var(--rule); }
.crumbs a { display: inline-block; min-height: 24px; padding-block: .2rem; }

/* --- portada --- */
.hero { padding-block: clamp(2.5rem, 8vw, 5rem) clamp(2rem, 5vw, 3rem); border-bottom: 1px solid var(--rule); position: relative; }
.hero__coord { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: .7rem; letter-spacing: .12em; color: var(--ink-faint); text-transform: uppercase; margin-bottom: 1.5rem; }
.hero h1 { font-size: clamp(2.2rem, 1.2rem + 4.4vw, 4.4rem); margin-bottom: .3em; }
.hero__lead { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(1.05rem, .98rem + .5vw, 1.35rem); color: var(--ink-soft); max-width: 40rem; }
.hero__actions { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: .75rem; margin-top: 2rem; }

.btn { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center; min-height: 48px; padding: .7rem 1.25rem; border: 1px solid var(--ink); background: var(--ink); color: var(--paper); text-decoration: none; font-size: .88rem; letter-spacing: .06em; text-transform: uppercase; cursor: pointer; font-family: var(--sans); }
.btn:hover { background: var(--accent); border-color: var(--accent); color: var(--accent-ink); }
.btn--ghost { background: transparent; color: var(--ink); border-color: var(--rule); }
.btn--ghost:hover { border-color: var(--accent); background: transparent; color: var(--ink); }

/* --- rejillas --- */
.grid { display: grid; gap: 1px; background: var(--rule); border: 1px solid var(--rule); margin-block: 1.5rem; }
@media (min-width: 40rem) { .grid--2 { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, 1fr); } }
@media (min-width: 56rem) { .grid--3 { grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); } .grid--2 { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, 1fr); } }
.card { background: var(--paper); padding: 1.35rem; display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: .5rem; }
.card:hover { background: var(--paper-2); }
.card__kicker { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: .68rem; letter-spacing: .14em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--mark); }
.card h3 { margin: 0; font-size: 1.12rem; }
.card h3 a { text-decoration: none; }
.card h3 a:hover { text-decoration: underline; }
.card p { margin: 0; font-size: .92rem; color: var(--ink-soft); }
.card__meta { margin-top: auto; padding-top: .5rem; font-size: .74rem; color: var(--ink-faint); font-family: var(--mono); }

.section { padding-block: clamp(2rem, 5vw, 3.5rem); border-bottom: 1px solid var(--rule-soft); }
.section__head { display: flex; align-items: baseline; justify-content: space-between; gap: 1rem; flex-wrap: wrap; }
.section__head h2 { margin: 0; }
.section__head a { font-size: .8rem; letter-spacing: .06em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ink-soft); display: inline-block; min-height: 24px; padding-block: .18rem; }

/* --- distintivos de verificación --- */
.badge { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: .4rem; font-family: var(--mono); font-size: .68rem; letter-spacing: .1em; text-transform: uppercase; padding: .22rem .5rem; border: 1px solid currentColor; white-space: nowrap; }
.badge::before { content: ""; width: .5em; height: .5em; background: currentColor; flex: none; }
.badge--confirmed { color: var(--ok); }
.badge--partner-supplied { color: var(--accent); }
.badge--pending { color: var(--pend); }
.badge--pending::before { clip-path: polygon(50% 0, 100% 100%, 0 100%); }
.badge--outdated { color: var(--warn); }
.badge--outdated::before { border-radius: 50%; }

.fact { border-left: 3px solid var(--rule); padding: .1rem 0 .1rem 1rem; margin-block: 1.2rem; }
.fact__label { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: .7rem; letter-spacing: .12em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ink-faint); display: block; margin-bottom: .25rem; }
.fact__value { font-size: 1.02rem; }
.fact__prov { font-size: .78rem; color: var(--ink-faint); margin-top: .45rem; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: .35rem .9rem; align-items: center; }
.fact__note { font-size: .84rem; color: var(--ink-soft); margin-top: .5rem; font-style: italic; }

.callout { border: 1px solid var(--rule); border-left-width: 4px; padding: 1rem 1.15rem; margin-block: 1.5rem; font-size: .95rem; }
.callout--note { border-left-color: var(--accent); background: var(--paper-2); }
.callout--warning { border-left-color: var(--mark); background: var(--paper-2); }
.callout__label { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: .68rem; letter-spacing: .14em; text-transform: uppercase; display: block; margin-bottom: .4rem; color: var(--ink-faint); }

.meta-line { font-size: .78rem; color: var(--ink-faint); font-family: var(--mono); display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: .3rem .9rem; margin-block: .75rem 1.5rem; }

/* --- artículo --- */
.article-head { padding-block: 1.5rem 1rem; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--rule); margin-bottom: 2rem; }
.article-head .deck { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(1.05rem, 1rem + .5vw, 1.3rem); color: var(--ink-soft); max-width: 38rem; }
.qa { border-top: 1px solid var(--rule-soft); padding-top: 1.1rem; margin-block: 1.5rem; }
.qa__q { font-family: var(--serif); font-weight: 600; font-size: 1.08rem; margin-bottom: .4rem; }

.sourcelist { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 0; }
.sourcelist li { border-top: 1px solid var(--rule-soft); padding-block: .85rem; font-size: .9rem; }
.sourcelist .src__t { font-weight: 600; }
.sourcelist .src__m { font-size: .76rem; color: var(--ink-faint); font-family: var(--mono); }

.deflist { display: grid; gap: 0; margin: 1.5rem 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--rule); }
.deflist > div { display: grid; gap: .2rem .5rem; padding-block: .85rem; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--rule-soft); }
@media (min-width: 40rem) { .deflist > div { grid-template-columns: 12rem 1fr; } }
.deflist dt { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: .72rem; letter-spacing: .1em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ink-faint); margin: 0; }
.deflist dd { margin: 0; }

.scroller { overflow-x: auto; -webkit-overflow-scrolling: touch; }
table { border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; font-size: .9rem; }
th, td { text-align: left; padding: .6rem .7rem; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--rule-soft); vertical-align: top; }
th { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: .7rem; letter-spacing: .1em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ink-faint); font-weight: 400; }

/* --- calendario estacional --- */
.season { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(12, 1fr); gap: 2px; margin-block: .6rem; }
.season span { height: 1.75rem; background: var(--paper-3); display: grid; place-items: center; font-family: var(--mono); font-size: .62rem; color: var(--ink-soft); }
.season span.on { background: var(--accent); color: var(--accent-ink); }

/* --- formularios --- */
.form { max-width: 38rem; }
.field { margin-bottom: 1.35rem; }
.field label { display: block; font-family: var(--mono); font-size: .72rem; letter-spacing: .1em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ink-faint); margin-bottom: .35rem; }
.field input, .field select, .field textarea {
  width: 100%; min-height: 48px; padding: .65rem .75rem; font: inherit; font-size: 1rem;
  background: var(--paper); color: var(--ink); border: 1px solid var(--rule); border-radius: 0;
}
.field textarea { min-height: 8rem; resize: vertical; }
.field .hint { font-size: .78rem; color: var(--ink-faint); margin-top: .3rem; }

/* --- conserje --- */
.concierge-form { border: 1px solid var(--rule); padding: 1.25rem; background: var(--paper-2); margin-block: 1.5rem; }
.concierge-form .row { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: .75rem; }
.concierge-form input {
  width: 100%; min-height: 48px; padding: .65rem .75rem; font: inherit; font-size: 1rem;
  background: var(--paper); color: var(--ink); border: 1px solid var(--rule); border-radius: 0;
}
.concierge-form .hint { color: var(--ink-faint); }
@media (min-width: 40rem) { .concierge-form .row { flex-direction: row; align-items: stretch; } .concierge-form input { flex: 1; } }
.answer { border: 1px solid var(--rule); border-top: 4px solid var(--accent); padding: 1.25rem; margin-block: 2rem; }
.answer h2 { margin-top: 0; }
.chips { list-style: none; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: .5rem; padding: 0; margin: .75rem 0 0; }
.chips a { display: inline-block; border: 1px solid var(--rule); padding: .5rem .75rem; font-size: .84rem; text-decoration: none; min-height: 44px; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; }
.chips a:hover { border-color: var(--accent); }

/* --- pie --- */
.footer { border-top: 1px solid var(--rule); padding-block: 2.5rem 3.5rem; margin-top: 2rem; font-size: .88rem; color: var(--ink-soft); }
.footer__cols { display: grid; gap: 1.75rem; }
@media (min-width: 44rem) { .footer__cols { grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); } }
.footer h2 { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: .7rem; letter-spacing: .14em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ink-faint); margin: 0 0 .6rem; font-weight: 400; }
.footer ul { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 0; }
.footer li { margin-bottom: .2rem; }
.footer li a { display: inline-block; min-height: 24px; padding-block: .2rem; }
.footer__legal { border-top: 1px solid var(--rule-soft); margin-top: 2rem; padding-top: 1.25rem; font-size: .8rem; color: var(--ink-faint); }

.visually-hidden { position: absolute; width: 1px; height: 1px; padding: 0; margin: -1px; overflow: hidden; clip: rect(0 0 0 0); white-space: nowrap; border: 0; }

@media print {
  body { background: #fff; color: #000; }
  .masthead__tools, .nav, .concierge-form { display: none; }
}

/* --- cumplimiento del local, visible para los anfitriones --- */
.cump { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: .78rem; }
.cump--ok { color: var(--ok); }
.cump--ojo { color: var(--warn); }
.cump--neutro { color: var(--ink-faint); }
.descuento {
  font-family: var(--mono); font-size: .8rem; color: var(--ok);
  border: 1px solid currentColor; padding: .3rem .6rem; display: inline-block; margin: 0 0 1rem;
}

/* --- ANFITRIÓN: superficie propia, acento distinto del medio --- */
body.anfitrion { --accent: var(--mark); --accent-ink: var(--paper); }
.masthead--anfitrion { border-bottom-width: 3px; border-bottom-color: var(--mark); }
.lockup__1--anfitrion { letter-spacing: .2em; font-family: var(--sans); font-weight: 600; font-size: 1.15rem; }